Month: November 2014
Cuñapés
Bolivian cuisine is held in much the same regard by South Americans, as English food is by the Europeans. Essentially they view the food as uninspired and bland. While there tends to be a modicum of truth as a basis for all culinary clichés, this is a largely unfair opinion. Yes, like the British, the Bolivians have a great many stews and soups as the backbone of their food culture. Likewise they are prone to a meat-and-two-veg diet and are in love with the potato in all its forms. But like the British, they are exceptionally forward thinking when it comes to modern fusion cuisine and they are excellent bakers.
My first taste of true Bolivian baking was in Copacabana. After spending 24 hours hopping on and off buses and trekking across the beautiful Isla del Sol, I was ready for a carbohydrate-packed hit to bolster my flagging energy levels. Whilst browsing the local eateries I stumbled across these delightfully light, chewy, moreish cheese buns, known as Cunapes. The Cunape is not native to Copacabana, but instead traditionally hails from the South Eastern city of Santa Cruz.
But wherever these come from, these baked delights are an ideal snack for mid morning. They are also ludicrously easy to make. I have substituted Queso Fresco for Gouda here, as it has the necessary mild flavour and brilliant melting properties. One ingredient that cannot be substituted however, is the tapioca flour, which provides the requisite chewy texture. You can buy this online or in many ethnic grocers – where it may be called cassava flour, mandioca starch or yucca, depending on its country of origin.
Level: low
Skills: baking
Time: 30-40 minutes
Makes: 10 small buns
Ingredients:
110g tapioca flour
220g grated Gouda
1tsp baking powder
1 egg
1-3tbsp milk
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 230C.
2. Mix the tapioca flour and the baking powder in a mixing bowl.
3. Add the cheese and mix well until cheese is covered in the flour.
4. Add the egg to the mix and stir to combine.
5. The dough should come together in a ball, leaving the sides of the bowl clean. Add the milk 1tbsp at a time until the correct consistency is achieved.
6. Divide the dough into 10 pieces of the same size and shape them into balls.
7. Put a thumbprint in the bottom of each ball (this helps with even puffing in the oven and stops them sticking).
8. Place thumbprint side down on a lightly greased baking tray. You can use baking parchment to reduce clean up.
9. Bake for 12-15mins until lightly golden and well puffed up.
10. Serve warm.
Destination #22 / Lake Titicaca (Uros Islands, Peru & Isla Del Sol, Bolivia)
Torta de Chocolate
After completing the Inca Trail I returned to the delightful, if touristy, City of Cusco. Cusco is the former Andean capital and is viewed by many today as Peru’s historic centre. It is here, by visiting the many Incan (or more accurately Quechuan) museums and ruins that I acquired the bulk of my knowledge about Peru’s intriguing past. Of course it is impossible to look back at the colonial past without drawing conclusions about the conquering European nations. For example, the Inca Temple of Qorikancha was leveled and used as foundations for the Convent of Santo Domingo. While this is undoubtedly a deliberately devastating way to stamp authority on the indigenous culture, it does provide us with an interesting juxtaposition of architectural and cultural styles.
Another highlight of my time in Cusco was at the Chocolate Museum, where I roasted, shelled and ground my own cocoa. The subsequent paste was used to make both Inca and Gringo style hot chocolate. Food historians still debate whether the Inca people consumed chocolate in the same way the Aztecs, Mayans and Mixtecs did, but the modern Peruvian love affair with the stuff cannot be called into question. For them it is a valuable export and an ingredient that is used frequently in their fusion cuisine. The streets of Cusco, you see, are brimming with artisan bakeries, showcasing the best of both South American and continental patisserie. As I was feeling a little celebratory in Cusco I figured the delicious Torta de chocolate, with its pan-continental origins and dark chocolate hit, would best represent my time there. The recipe makes good use of store cupboard ingredients and contains fewer fresh ingredients that we would expect from our own recipes, but the use of oil makes the recipe exceptionally easy to make and delightfully moist.
Ingredients
480ml whole milk
2tbsp white vinegar
360g plain flour
1tbsp baking powder
120g good quality cocoa
180ml vegetable or rapeseed oil
3 eggs
560 g caster sugar
1tsp vanilla extract
Chocolate glaze:
1 tin condensed milk (397g)
1 tin evaporated milk (410g)
60g good quality cocoa
1tsp vanilla extract
1 knob of butter
Method
1. Preheat oven to 180°.
2. Line a 26–28cm round cake tin with baking parchment and grease lightly.
3. Add the vinegar to the milk and set aside.
4. In a big bowl combine the flour, baking powder and cocoa.
5. Constantly stirring, add first the oil, then the milk, then the eggs and lastly the sugar and vanilla extract. Mix thoroughly.
6. Pour the cake batter into the prepared tin. Make sure it’s no more than ¾ full as the cake will rise.
7. Bake for about 45-60 minutes, until an inserted skewer comes out clean and the cake has withdrawn from the sides of the tin.
8. Allow to cool for ten minutes then turn out onto a wire rack until ready.
9. For the chocolate glaze, dissolve the cocoa in 3 tablespoons warm evaporated milk.
10. Put the sweetened condensed milk, the evaporated milk and the cocoa mix into a saucepan. Stirring the entire time cook at a rolling boil until the mixture thickens and gets creamy. This might take 10 to 15 minutes.
11. Add vanilla extract and butter. Remove from heat.
12. Split your cake in half with a bread knife.
13. Spread half of the glaze between the two cakes and half over the top, with a warmed palette knife.
Destination #21 / Cusco, Peru
Rocoto Relleno
The Inca Trail, turned out to be every bit as challenging as I expected. Beginning on the edge of the scared valley, we hiked up into the cloud forest before eventually arriving at the sun gate on the fourth day. The trek was some 43km in length (that’s 26 miles), we scaled 1.2km of hills and steps, to a maximum altitude of 4.2km above sea level. Breathlessly trudging along the aptly named Dead Women’s Pass and down the equally well named Gringo-Killer steps, seemed hard work at the time, but it is only now, when I look back that I realise what a monumental achievement it was. This well worn trail has been achieved by older and feebler people than me, but I remain proud of how my group and I persevered through various nagging injuries and bouts of altitude sickness, to arrive at Machu Picchu early on that foggy Sunday morning.
The physical stresses were alleviated in part by the support and camaraderie of the group, in part by the stunning views and in part by the presence of our porters. These purple-clad supermen, carried our tents and camping equipment from site to site, galloping up the stone steps as if they were part mountain goat. Arriving at our camp sites several hours before us, they would go about cooking a variety of stunning meals to help fuel and fortify us for the remaining journey. The adeptness of the chefs, in these most challenging conditions was a source of inspiration to me. We were served three course meals that I would happily pay for in a Peruvian restaurant. We were served fresh trout, quinoa salads, grilled chicken, apple pie and even a fully decorated sponge cake (I still am in awe as to how this was achieved using only a small gas burner and an array of saucepans.)
But before we even made it onto the trail we visited Ollantaytambo and a variety of small, community led charity projects, including a secluded restaurant kept going by trekkers such as myself. It is there I tasted a true Peruvian classic – Rocoto Relleno. This dish has much in common with the Chile en Nogada recipe I posted from Puebla. But for those daunted by the complex picadillo and walnut sauce in the aforementioned recipe, this recipe may provide a simpler introduction to the stuffed pepper. Utilising a simpler, spiced minced beef filling, the pepper can be served “nude” or en capeada. In Cusco, the capeada version is preferred, where the pepper is served swaddled in a lightly chewy egg batter. Unlike in the Mexican variant, where the tempura like batter only serves to help the sauce stick to the pepper, in this version the batter provides substantial texture and adds to the dish immensely. It is the addition of some cream of tartar and a little cornflour that helps provide this appealing firmness. Rocoto peppers aren’t easy to find outside of the Americas, so I suggest a simple red (bell) pepper for this recipe. I have added a little extra spice to the filling to compensate for the lack of heat.
Ingredients
4 Red peppers
1 Onion, chopped finely
1 Clove garlic, minced
2 Chilli peppers, seeds removed and chopped
2tbsp olive oil
1tsp cumin
1tbsp mild paprika
400g minced beef
175ml beef stock
1 Hard boiled egg, coarsely chopped
12 black olives, sliced
2 egg whites
1 egg yolk
1/2tsp cream of tartar
1tbsp cornflour
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 140°C.
2. Cut a slit into the side of each pepper, running from the stalk to the very bottom. Lightly oil the pepper and then place on a baking tray.
3. Bake for 20-30 minutes until the peppers have softened and collapsed slightly. Remove to a plate and allow to cool.
4. Next, saute the chopped onions, garlic, and chilli peppers in a frying pan, with the olive oil until soft and fragrant.
5. Add the cumin and paprika and cook for 2 minutes, stirring.
6. Add the minced beef and cook until browned.
7. Pour in the beef stock and simmer for 10-15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is gone.
8. Once the beef mixture has simmered, stir in the chopped hard boiled egg and olives. Season mixture with salt and pepper to taste. (I like to add a dash of Worcester sauce here.)
9. Remove the beef mixture from heat and let cool for 5 minutes.
10. Using a teaspoon, carefully scrape the seeds and veins from the inside of the pepper. Then fill each pepper with some of the seasoned beef mixture.
11. Preheat a free standing deep dryer to 170°C.
12. Now to prepare the capeada. Place the egg whites in a bowl and mix for a few minutes using an electric whisk. You want stiff peaks to form, but for the mixture to remain glossy, not dry.
13. Add one of the egg yolks to the mix and beat in quickly. Next fold through the cream of tartar and the cornflour to stabilise the foam.
14. When ready, dip each pepper into the batter, using a pair of tongs or a skewer. Then very gently lower the pepper into the hot oil. It is essential to ensure the slit on the side is covered by the batter – if the oil is hot enough this will seal the gap quickly.
15. Once the batter starts to turn golden, rotate the pepper until cooked all over. This should take 4-6 minutes.
16. Remove from the fryer, drain and allow to cool for a few minutes.
17. Serve.
Destination #20 / The Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu, Peru
Lomo Saltado
Nasca is famous for one thing, the Nasca lines. But to focus on that one historical marvel does this little town a disservice. By day I will remember it for the duelling taxi men who shout at each other across the road like the warring gangs of West Side Story. I will remember the arid climate, that seldom became oppressive, even in this dessert town. I will remember the sheer number of touts and the incessant honking of the cars. But what I will remember most is how this little tourist town, comes alive at night. After dusk is a whole different story, when the many restaurants and bars are full of charmingly helpful characters, wanting to show you the best of Peruvian cuisine and share with you the delights of the national drink – Pisco Sours.
In one of these quaint eateries myself and my travel companion had our first taste of Lomo Saltado. This simplistic looking stir-fry is the very embodiment of the fusion cuisine for which Peru is known. The marinade for the tender cuts of fillet steak contains global condiments such as soy sauce (from East Asia), Worcestershire sauce (from the UK) and their very own grape brandy, Pisco. What is more bizarre, is that when you dive into the meat, surrounded as it is by large chunks of fresh tomato and red onion, you will find hidden beneath it’s glistening depths a cheeky portion of thick-cut chip shop style chips. All of this in addition to a side of seasoned rice. Carb overload, but a traditional treat none the less that can be enjoyed on (the rare) occasion.
Level: medium
Methods: marinating
Skills: stir-fry in, deep-frying
Time: 1 hour 15 minutes (not including marinading time)
Makes: Serves 4
Ingredients
For the marinade:
4 garlic cloves, chopped
5 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tsp worcestershire sauce
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp smoked paprika
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the lomo saltado and chips:
600g fillet steak, cut into 1½ inch cubes
vegetable oil, for frying
1 large red onion, cut into thick wedges
3-4 spring onions, split lengthways and cut into 2 inch batons
2 tomatoes, seeds removed and cut into eighths
1 red chilli, seeds removed and sliced lengthways
2 tsp pisco or brandy
25g fresh coriander, finely chopped
10g fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
600g maris piper potatoes, peeled, cut into chips
sunflower oil, for deep frying
Method
1. For the marinade, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl with two tablespoons of water until well combined.
2. Add the meat to the bowl and mix so that it is well covered in the marinade. Cover with cling film and leave to marinate in the fridge for about four hours or overnight if you are organised enough.
3. When ready prepare the chips and rinse in a colander under plenty of cold water to remove excess starch. Pat dry with kitchen paper.
4. Heat a deep-fat fryer half-full of sunflower oil to 130C. Add the potatoes to the deep-fat fryer and fry for 10 minutes, or until softened.
5. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper.
6. When ready to serve, reheat the oil to 190C. With a slotted spoon, lower all the par-cooked chips gently into the pan and cook for 4-5 minutes, or until crisp and golden-brown.
7. Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Season with a little salt and keep warm while you cook the steak.
8. Drain the meat, reserving the marinade.
9. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok over high heat until just smoking and add the meat to the wok – be careful, it might splash.
10. Cook as quickly as possible, tossing it until the meat is browned on all sides.
11. Add the red onion wedges and spring onions. Cook for one minute.
12. Add the tomato and chilli and immediately pour in the pisco.
13. Pour over the reserved marinade and bring to a simmer. Turn off the heat and leave the meat to rest in the sauce for a couple of minutes.
14. Place the steak on top of the chips and garnish with chopped coriander and parsley.
Destination #19 / Nasca, Peru
Alfajores
Paracas was a uniquely beautiful but small coastal town, where we stopped for a few short days. It’s position, overlooking the pacific ocean meant the climate stayed cool, despite the dessert surroundings. A number of interesting trips can be organised here (the tourist information centre incidentally is run from a bus station-slash-hostel). My favourite was a boat ride out to Isla Balletas, cruelly referred to by some as “the poor man’s Galapagos”, the Balletas Islands are home to a variety of native birds such as boobies, cormorants, vultures and pelicans. There are also a ton of sea lions and the odd dolphin if you’re lucky. From there a trip can be arranged to the unique salt dessert, where it virtually never rains and you can see large crystals of salt under the crunchy upper sand layer. This unique terrain was created millions of years ago during the last ice age, when the water withdrew. Movement of tectonic plates has pushed this ancient ocean floor well above sea level. This seemingly desolate landscape is punctuated by lakes and glimpses of coast line, that appear like mirages between the vast expanses of sand.
But what I liked best about Paracas was the simplicity of the available cuisine. My hotel, which was the poshest I have stayed at so far, provided simple food that was cooked and presented immaculately. Likewise the surrounding restaurants, provided similar simple but quality fare. My favourite discovery however was in a small, murkily lit, dilapidated shop. Nestled in amongst the chocolate and crisps were some Alfajores. I had some vague knowledge of this biscuit, which is produced across many countries on the south American continent. But they were better than I had imagined.
A simple sandwich biscuit at first glance, the shortbread like rounds are especially short and crumbly, with a moderate but pleasing buttery taste. But better than the texture is the generous layer of Dulce de Leche nestled in between, which serves to provide notes of caramel, whilst simultaneously preventing the biscuit from falling apart completely in your hands. A simple garnish of icing sugar completes the look. As I continued to travel through Peru I tasted several variants, with slightly differing textures, some which had their sticky sides coated in dessicated coconut and others dunked in quality Peruvian chocolate. Here I have attempted to create a similar biscuit, but this time I will let you off and allow you to purchase the dulce ready made in order to save time. For those interested, a recipe for homemade Dulce de Leche will follow in the coming weeks. These treats are ludicrously high in sugar, so don’t let the delicate melting texture fool you – eat responsibly.
Level: low/medium
Methods: rubbing-in
Skills: baking
Time: 1 hour 45 minutes (including cooling and filling)
Makes: around 12 sandwich biscuits
Ingredients
175g self raising flour
125g cornflour
50g icing sugar
225g butter, diced
1 egg yolk
1 tsp vanilla essence
Dulce de Leche (397 g tin of carnation caramel is an easily available substitute)
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 160ºC and line a couple of baking sheets with baking parchment.
2. Place the flour, cornflour and icing sugar in a food processor and pulse for a few seconds to mix. Then add the butter, egg yolk and vanilla and turn the machine on until it all comes together into a ball of dough.
3. Place the dough in between two sheets of cling film, flatten slightly with the palm of your hand and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
4. Remove the dough from the fridge. It should be slightly firmer now but not solid. Keeping it sandwiched in between the cling film, roll it out to a 1/4 thickness using a rolling pin. The short dough will invariably crack around the edges but don’t get frustrated, it is quite forgiving and can be rerolled multiple times.
5. Stamp out 24 rounds using a plain or fluted 2-inch round cutter, rerolling the dough as necessary until all of it is gone.
6. Place the cookies on the prepared baking sheets, 12 per sheet and at least 1/2 inch apart. Bake 1 sheet at a time until the biscuits are firm and pale golden on the bottom, about 12 to 14 minutes. (The biscuits will remain pale on top.)
7. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Take care, the cookies are even more delicate when warm, so work slowly unless you want a pile of broken biscuits.
8. When cool, flip half of the cookies upside down and gently spread about 2 teaspoons of the dulce de leche onto each. Place a second cookie on top and gently press to create a sandwich.
9. Dust generously with powdered sugar before serving.
Mastication / Destination 