Day: January 11, 2015
Coxinha
At the end of my time in Buenos Aries, I joined another tour group heading for Brazil. Our first stop was the (literally) awesome Igauzu Falls, on the border of Argentina and Brazil. I have seen rather a few waterfalls thus far in my travels and have become somewhat blase about them, to the amusement of my travel companions, but Igauzu has them all beat. To echo the oft-cited (supposed) quote of first lady Eleanor Roosevelt “Poor Niagara!” Sorry to my Canadian chums, but Iguazu really is something else. While both the volume of water and the height can be beat elsewhere, these falls are over 1.5 miles in length and are set in beautiful, sprawling national parks. The falls themselves are splendid but the flora and fauna is equally impressive; my favourites were the resplendent toucans and the much-maligned coati, a mammal that resembles a cross between a badger, an anteater and a raccoon. These brazen and rogueish creatures can be found all over the park, but for obvious reasons, most often congregate by the cafes and picnic areas. Cute as they are though, they do bite and are not for petting.
However, my first true taste of Brazilian cuisine, came before we even entered the park. We had just departed the tour bus to be confronted with a downpour of rain to rival the falls themselves. Taking shelter in the visitors centre, we all gathered in the cafe and I was able to sample my first (of many) coxinha. For the uninitiated, coxinha are a sort of layered croquette, that resemble a small pear. The name actually means little thigh and with a little imagination, it is easy to see why they were supposed to evoked a chickens thigh, minus the drumstick. The best coxinha i tried consisted of four layers. The crisp golden breadcrumbs of the pane coating; the unctious, almost sticky outer paste; delciately seasoned shredded chicken, speckled red with parpika; and the smallest hint of creamy, melting soft cheese in the very centre.
Making these morsels can be laborious but is ultimately very fulfilling, especially if you have a friend to hand helping you. I have chosen to portion the recipe to make small coxinha as they cook through quicker. Despite my best efforts to portion the filling, you will sometimes find that you have some leftover. If so, it tastes great in a sandwich or stirred through a pasta salad.
Level: medium
Skills: poaching, deep-frying
Methods: roux paste, pane
Time: 90 minutes minimum
Makes: 24 small coxinha
Ingredients
2 skinless, boneless chicken thighs (approx weight 260g)
250ml chicken stock (cubes are fine)
1 small onion/shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1tbsp olive oil
1/2tsp paprika
250ml whole milk
30g butter
250g plain flour
1/2tsp paprika
1tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
2 spring onions, green part only, finely chopped
salt and pepper to taste
75g ricotta cheese (mozarella or even philadelphia works, so use up whats in the fridge)
For the pane:
oil for frying
2-3 tbsp of flour
1 large egg
3-4tbsp fine breadcrumbs
Method
1. Poach the chicken thighs in the chicken stock in a saucepan until cooked; this will take around 15 minutes, but do check they are cooked through.
2. Remove from liquid and let cool. Reserve the stock (toppingback up to 250ml with water).
3. While the chicken is cooking, fry the chopped onion and garlic in the olive oil, over a medium low het for about 10 minutes, until soft.
4. Return the 250ml of chicken stock to the poaching pan, along with the milk and the butter. Slowly heat until the butter is melted.
5. Then slowly beat in the flour and cook for a few minutes until a cohesive dough is formed that comes away from the side of the pan.
6. Turn out onto a plate and allow to cool until comfortable to handle.
7. Return to the filling. Using two forks, shred the chicken into small pieces. Season with salt, pepper, paprika, parsley and spring onion.
8. Knead the dough for 3-4 minutes on an unfloured work surface until smooth. Divide the dough into 24 pieces.
9. Take each piece and flatten into a disc, leaving a slight lip at the edge, like a saucer.
10. Add a small teaspoon of chicken filling, followed by a scant quarter teaspoon of ricotta.
11. Bring up the edges of the disc to meet at the top, and using your thumb and forefinger, gather and twist the top into a point so it resembles a small pear. Place on a lined tray and make the other coxinha.
12. Preheat the oil in a free standing fryer to 185ºC.
13. Tip the flour onto a plate, then whisk an egg on another, before placing the breadcrumbs on a third.
14. Dip the coxinhas first into the flour, then the egg mixture, then into the sandy breadcrumbs. Ensure they are very well covered as otherwise they may burst during cooking. Set aside and continue coating the remaining coxinha.
15. When the oil is hot enough, deep-fry the coxinhas, about 5 at a time, until they are gorgeously golden (about 2 minutes). Remove to a baking sheet lined with kitchen paper.
16. If you wish, you can keep your cooked coxhinas warm in a 120ºC oven while you continue with the rest.
Mastication / Destination 