Hoi An, approximately halfway up Vietnam, is a haven for backpackers. About halfway between Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, this small bohemian town is brimming over with creativity and couldn’t be more different from the heaving cities that bookend the country. Most famous for its bespoke tailors, there are plenty of artisans perfecting their crafts and selling their wares.
For me, the two things that stand out in Hoi An are the lanterns and the food. On one particularly laid-back evening spent mooching around the city, I had one of my most memorable experiences. Tucked away at the back of an innocuous looking bookstore, was a staircase that led to a beautiful rooftop restaurant. On the roof, next to the bar was a huge tree that was festooned with festively coloured paper lanterns that lit up the dining space. As the sun set and the lights came on across the town I has my first taste of Bun Cha.
Traditionally Bun Cha is attributed to Hanoi, but it was here that I sampled the best version. Most often, Bun Cha comprises of noodles, salad and grilled pork patties dressed with an acidic sauce. But at this divine spot in Hoi An, the sauce was flavoured more delicately and served apart from the noodles, allowing you to season the dish your own way. There was also extra texture provided in the form of crisply rendered strips of unctuous pork belly. It is this ultimate variant that I attempt to recreate here.
Level: medium
Methods: frying
Skills: caramel, marinading
Time: 45 minutes (with 90 minutes chilling time)
Makes: serves 4
Ingredients
For the pork:
2tbsp caster sugar
5tbsp water
1 large shallot, chopped vey finely
3tbsp fish sauce
¼tsp freshly ground black pepper
200g pork mince
200g pork belly
For the sauce:
2tbsp fish sauce
2tbsp rice vinegar
1tsp soft light brown sugar
250ml water
½tsp garlic, puréed
1 red chilli, finely chopped
2tbsp green papaya, cut into small, thin slices (carrot can be used in its place)
To serve:
400g thin rice noodles
100g mixed salad leaves, torn roughly
50g selection of Asian herbs (mint, coriander, etc.)
Method
1. In a small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of sugar with 3 tablespoons of the water and cook over high heat until a dark brown caramel forms; around 8 minutes.
2. Remove from the heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons cold water, swirling the pot. Set aside.
3. In a large mixing bowl, combine the shallot, fish sauce and pepper. Then add the caramel sauce and stir.
4. Pour half of the marinade over the pork mince and half over the pork belly. Marinate in the refrigerator for 1½ hours.
5. Meanwhile, combine all ingredients for the sauce in a large mixing bowl.
6. When the pork is ready, remove from the refrigerator. Shape the mince into small patties, about eight in all.
7. Heat a cast iron griddle pan to high.
8. Bring a pot of water to a boil and cook the noodles according to the directions on their package. Drain, then rinse under cold water to halt the cooking process.
9. Meanwhile, cook the pork patties until slightly charred, about 4 minutes per side. Then cook the pork belly slices for 2-3 minutes.
10. Spoon the sauce into four bowls, then place the pork over the sauce. Place the herbs and salad in one large communal bowl and the noodles into another large communal bowl.
11. To eat, dip some of the noodles into the sauce and eat with the pork and herbs.
Mastication / Destination 