The Inca Trail, turned out to be every bit as challenging as I expected. Beginning on the edge of the scared valley, we hiked up into the cloud forest before eventually arriving at the sun gate on the fourth day. The trek was some 43km in length (that’s 26 miles), we scaled 1.2km of hills and steps, to a maximum altitude of 4.2km above sea level. Breathlessly trudging along the aptly named Dead Women’s Pass and down the equally well named Gringo-Killer steps, seemed hard work at the time, but it is only now, when I look back that I realise what a monumental achievement it was. This well worn trail has been achieved by older and feebler people than me, but I remain proud of how my group and I persevered through various nagging injuries and bouts of altitude sickness, to arrive at Machu Picchu early on that foggy Sunday morning.
The physical stresses were alleviated in part by the support and camaraderie of the group, in part by the stunning views and in part by the presence of our porters. These purple-clad supermen, carried our tents and camping equipment from site to site, galloping up the stone steps as if they were part mountain goat. Arriving at our camp sites several hours before us, they would go about cooking a variety of stunning meals to help fuel and fortify us for the remaining journey. The adeptness of the chefs, in these most challenging conditions was a source of inspiration to me. We were served three course meals that I would happily pay for in a Peruvian restaurant. We were served fresh trout, quinoa salads, grilled chicken, apple pie and even a fully decorated sponge cake (I still am in awe as to how this was achieved using only a small gas burner and an array of saucepans.)
But before we even made it onto the trail we visited Ollantaytambo and a variety of small, community led charity projects, including a secluded restaurant kept going by trekkers such as myself. It is there I tasted a true Peruvian classic – Rocoto Relleno. This dish has much in common with the Chile en Nogada recipe I posted from Puebla. But for those daunted by the complex picadillo and walnut sauce in the aforementioned recipe, this recipe may provide a simpler introduction to the stuffed pepper. Utilising a simpler, spiced minced beef filling, the pepper can be served “nude” or en capeada. In Cusco, the capeada version is preferred, where the pepper is served swaddled in a lightly chewy egg batter. Unlike in the Mexican variant, where the tempura like batter only serves to help the sauce stick to the pepper, in this version the batter provides substantial texture and adds to the dish immensely. It is the addition of some cream of tartar and a little cornflour that helps provide this appealing firmness. Rocoto peppers aren’t easy to find outside of the Americas, so I suggest a simple red (bell) pepper for this recipe. I have added a little extra spice to the filling to compensate for the lack of heat.
Ingredients
4 Red peppers
1 Onion, chopped finely
1 Clove garlic, minced
2 Chilli peppers, seeds removed and chopped
2tbsp olive oil
1tsp cumin
1tbsp mild paprika
400g minced beef
175ml beef stock
1 Hard boiled egg, coarsely chopped
12 black olives, sliced
2 egg whites
1 egg yolk
1/2tsp cream of tartar
1tbsp cornflour
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 140°C.
2. Cut a slit into the side of each pepper, running from the stalk to the very bottom. Lightly oil the pepper and then place on a baking tray.
3. Bake for 20-30 minutes until the peppers have softened and collapsed slightly. Remove to a plate and allow to cool.
4. Next, saute the chopped onions, garlic, and chilli peppers in a frying pan, with the olive oil until soft and fragrant.
5. Add the cumin and paprika and cook for 2 minutes, stirring.
6. Add the minced beef and cook until browned.
7. Pour in the beef stock and simmer for 10-15 minutes, or until most of the liquid is gone.
8. Once the beef mixture has simmered, stir in the chopped hard boiled egg and olives. Season mixture with salt and pepper to taste. (I like to add a dash of Worcester sauce here.)
9. Remove the beef mixture from heat and let cool for 5 minutes.
10. Using a teaspoon, carefully scrape the seeds and veins from the inside of the pepper. Then fill each pepper with some of the seasoned beef mixture.
11. Preheat a free standing deep dryer to 170°C.
12. Now to prepare the capeada. Place the egg whites in a bowl and mix for a few minutes using an electric whisk. You want stiff peaks to form, but for the mixture to remain glossy, not dry.
13. Add one of the egg yolks to the mix and beat in quickly. Next fold through the cream of tartar and the cornflour to stabilise the foam.
14. When ready, dip each pepper into the batter, using a pair of tongs or a skewer. Then very gently lower the pepper into the hot oil. It is essential to ensure the slit on the side is covered by the batter – if the oil is hot enough this will seal the gap quickly.
15. Once the batter starts to turn golden, rotate the pepper until cooked all over. This should take 4-6 minutes.
16. Remove from the fryer, drain and allow to cool for a few minutes.
17. Serve.
Mastication / Destination 