Whilst in Iceland I ate a variety of challenging foods (more on which later) but one of my favourite meals was undoubtedly a simple soup named kjötsúpa. This lamb broth has been a winter staple in Iceland forever, owing to the availability of the ingredients and the popularity of sheep, which were brought by early Viking settlers to Iceland nearly a millenia ago.
One of the most unassuming meals I have enjoyed this far, I didn’t even remember to photograph so had to acquire this photo later. The soup itself is warmly accented with winter herbs and black pepper, overflowing with yielding sweet alliums and root vegetables. The hearty chunks of lamb are meltingly tender and the broth is speckled on top with tiny rivulets of fat from the rich meat (or the soup has eyes if you are Dutch!)
This hearty meal is indeed humble, but is surely an example of the whole being greater than the sum of its humble parts. Famous Icelandic food writer Nanna, tells how the soup is widely regarded as a cure-all for winter colds and ailments, as well as providing respite from the short-day depression suffered by many natives (Iceland only receives four hours of sunlight during midwinter.) Whilst I can’t speak for its medicinal qualities, this soup is truly comforting and delicious.
Level: low
Skills: boiling, simmering
Time: 1 hour 45 min
Makes: around 4 bowls (depending on the size of your bowl and your appetite)
Ingredients
400g lamb shoulder (preferably with some bone)
750ml water, plus more if necessary
1tsp sea salt
½tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 onion, chopped
1 leek, chopped
1tsp each of dried parsley and thyme
1 bay leaf
200g turnip or swede, peeled and chopped
100g carrots, peeled and chopped
100g potatoes, peeled and chopped
50g chopped green cabbage
Method
1. Trim some of the excess fat off the meat, and cut into chunks.
2. Place it in a large pot, add the water and bring slowly to a rolling boil.
3. Skim the broth, then add salt, pepper, onion, leeks and dried herbs. Reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, partly covered, for about 45 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables. They should be chunky, large enough that each piece is a separate spoonful. Add the turnip, carrots and potatoes to the soup, and continue simmering for 15 minutes more.
5. Next, add the cabbage and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, or until all the vegetables are tender.
6. Lift the meat out from the soup, and separate out the bones, sinew and excess fat.
7. Chop the meat up into bite-sized pieces and add them back into the soup. If needed, add a cup or two of more water, and adjust seasonings.
The soup is best enjoyed the day after it is cooked, so you can leave this in the fridge overnight, if you can resist the aroma.
Mastication / Destination 