American Pancakes

Large diner style pancakes are an icon of American food. And rightly so; the soft, fluffy pancakes are far superior to the papery, bland crepe that we so often eat in Europe. There will be many who disagree of course, but I haven’t eaten a traditional pancake on Shrove Tuesday for nearly a decade and I don’t intend to start anytime soon.

For me the American pancake is superior. That is why I was overjoyed to see them on the breakfast menu for my last morning in New Orleans and indeed the USA. Here the pancakes (or hotcakes as they are colloquially known) were suitably “southern”, punctuated by molten pockets of fruity, sweet banana. Now I tend to avoid cooked banana at all costs – I find it cloying and sickly – but here it served to sweeten the pancake to the point where I could forego the customary syrup. This is a great healthy alternative. But for those of you craving the classic, I would leave the bananas out, and instead top these spongy pancakes with bacon (grilled until darkly brown and crisp) and maple syrup. That sweet/salty contrast proves to be a winner every time.

Whichever way you prefer them, here is my bonus recipe for basic American style pancakes. Adapt them as you choose.

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Level: medium
Methods: batter making
Skills: frying

Time: 30 minutes
Makes: Serves 6

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Ingredients
350g self-raising flour
2tsp bicarbonate of soda
1tsp salt
2tbsp caster sugar
200ml buttermilk
400ml whole milk
2 eggs
100g unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for frying

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Method

1. In a bowl, mix the flour, bicarbonate of soda, salt and sugar together.

2. In a separate bowl or jug, mix together the buttermilk, milk, eggs and butter.

3. Pour the wet mixture into the dry and stir to combine. Do not over beat – if the batter is lumpy, set it aside for a few minutes and any lumps will disappear.

4. Melt a small knob of butter in a large frying pan over a medium heat.

5. Using a ladle, pour some batter into the pan to make a pancake. Depending on the size of your pan, you may be able to make more than one pancake at a time.

6. Cook the pancakes for about a minute, or until the underside is golden-brown and the top is bubbling. Then turn them over using a palette knife or fish slice and cook for another minute.

7. Keep the pancakes warm in a very low oven while you cook the remaining batter.

8. Serve the pancakes stacked on top of each other, with the toppings of your choice.

Jambalaya

At the heart of all Creole and Cajun cooking in New Orleans, is the old fashioned principle of one-pot cooking. There are so many famous dishes prepared in this way, that to try them all seemed impossible. However I stumbled across a great restaurant at the corner of Chartres Street that offered a sampling platter of red beans and rice, gumbo, shrimp etoufee and jamabalya. Each of the main dishes I sampled contain different proportions of the same ingredients. The cornerstone of this style of cooking is the Holy Trinity of onion, celery and peppers. This is similar to the European mirepoix (minus the carrot) which serves as the basis for the majority of our stews and soups. In addition, flavours such as paprika, cayenne and black pepper feature heavily.

It was therefore, quite remarkable to me that these dishes contain the same principle ingredients and yet taste so different. My favourites were the Gumbo and Jambalaya. The deep smokiness of the former is achieved through making a roux which is cooked until dark brown – rumour has it that Creole housewives used to cook the roux until it was the colour of their skin. The addition of traditional Andouille sausage and okra round out this dish, which is consumed either as a soup of over rice. However, my ultimate favourite is the Jambalaya, the robustly flavoured rice and the addition of tomatoes create a taste more in line with English sensibilities.

A traditional Jambalaya is cooked in one pan, and has a lot in common with its Spanish cousin Paella. I have cooked this meal for years at home and have made several tweaks to make it easier to cook. For example, I boil the rice separately and stir it into the stewed meat and vegetable mixture before serving. Ensuring that the rice has the requisite Al dente texture can be tricky, and by adding the rice separately, you avoid the hassle of ensuring all of the component ingredients are cooked at the same time. I have also added Polish kabanos sausages in addition to the traditional British bangers, as this is most like the Andouille of Creole cuisine. It adds a gentle savoury smokiness that is missing from most anglicised versions of the recipe, so it’s worth your while searching through the charcuterie section of the local supermarket.

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Level: low/medium
Methods: meat cookery, reduced sauce
Skills: boiling

Time: 1 hour
Makes: Serves 4-6 people

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Ingredients
2tbsp olive oil
6 good quality sausages
400g skinless boneless chicken thighs
1 onion, peeled and chopped
1 each of red, green and yellow peppers, deseeded and finely sliced
2 sticks celery, trimmed and chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 fresh red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
10 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves picked
1tsp smoked paprika
1/2tsp cayenne pepper
3tbsp plain flour
1tbsp white wine vinegar
750ml chicken stock
400g tin of chopped tomatoes
150g Polish smoked kabanos sausages
300g basmati rice
600ml water
salt
freshly ground black pepper
spring onions, finely sliced to garnish

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Method

1. Put a splash of olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium high heat.

2. Add your sausages and chicken thighs. Fry for 6-8 minutes until golden and cooked through. Take them out of the pan and put them on a plate to rest.

3. Add the onion, peppers and celery to the fat and fry on a medium heat for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened.

4. Meanwhile boil the rice. Place the rice and water into a saucepan, cover and bring to the boil. Cook for 8-10 minutes or until most of the water is absorbed. Remove from heat and leave covered until needed (this is essential as the rice steams and shouldn’t get sticky).

5. When your vegetables are softened, stir in your garlic, chilli, thyme and spices and fry for another minute or two. Stir in your flour and vinegar.

6. Next add the chicken stock and tinned tomatoes, using a wooden spoon to break them up a little. Season with salt and pepper, stir, then bring to the boil and let it cook for 15 minutes until thickened slightly.

7. Meanwhile roughly chop the sausages, chicken thighs and the cured kabanos.

8. Add them to the pot along with the cooked rice. Stir.

9. Serve when warmed through with chopped spring onions to garnish.

Beignets

In my first morning in the colourful city of New Orleans (or NOLA to the locals) I rose early to avoid the crowds and stifling heat. The city itself is an extremely beautiful and unique place, that seems entirely different to the previous US destinations I have visited. It is not a city where anything is done quickly, the heat and humidity ensure everything is done at a steady pace and the locals (while often eccentric) are extremely friendly. One such local spotted me as I stood on the corner of a street trying to decipher my map and plan out my day. Knowing a tourist when he saw one the man struck up a conversation and offered his advice. I told him I was interested in trying the food and he directed me towards the legendary Cafe Du Monde, which many regard as the birthplace of the Beignet.

N’awlins Beignets are very different to their French counterparts. Anyone who has sampled a French Beignet knows that they are often small, light as air puffs of delicate choux pastry. Whereas in NOLA Beignets are more akin to doughnuts. They are made from an enriched dough that is cut into rectangles and deep fried until golden, puffed up and vaguely chewy. The Beignets at Cafe Du Monde are generously proportioned and when cooked have roughly the dimensions of a deck of cards. These pillows of fried goodness, are liberally topped with immense snowy peaks of icing sugar (we’re talking three to four tablespoons of the stuff.) If you are ever lucky enough to travel to New Orleans to sample these traditional delights with a cafe au last, do yourself a favour and don’t wear dark clothes. You’ll be dusting the errant icing sugar off your clothes for days.

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Level: medium
Methods: enriched dough
Skills: deep-frying

Time: 2 1/2 hours
Makes: about a dozen

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Ingredients
350ml lukewarm water
100g caster sugar
1x 7g sachet of fast action yeast
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/4tsp salt
250g evaporated milk
800g bread flour
50g butter (room temperature)
Oil, for deep-frying
approx 250g icing sugar

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Method

1. Mix together the water, sugar, and yeast in a measuring jug. Set aside until the yeast has activated and the surface is frothy.

2. In another bowl, beat the eggs, salt and evaporated milk together. Then stir the egg mixture into the yeast mixture.

3. In a separate bowl, measure out the bread flour.

4. Add half of the flour to the yeast mixture and stir to combine, to make a thick batter.

5. Add the butter and continue to stir while adding the remaining flour, bit at at a time. The dough will be fairly sticky but don’t worry too much.

6.Remove the dough from the bowl, place onto a lightly floured surface and knead for around five minutes or until smooth and elastic. Only add more flour if the dough becomes unmanageable as we want a soft, springy dough.

7. Put the dough back into the bowl and cover with clinfilm or a towel. Allow it to rise in a warm place for at least 2 hours.

8. When the dough is ready, preheat the oil in a deep-fryer to 170°C.

9. Place the icing sugar in a large plastic sandwich bag and set aside.

10. Roll the dough out to about 1/4-inch thickness and cut into rectangles(2×3 inches is ideal).

11.Lower a couple of your beignets into the fryer and cook, flipping constantly, until they become a golden color (4-5 minutes). Cut open the first batch to check it is cooked through. If not, alter the temperature and cooking time accordingly.

12. After beignets are fried, drain them for a few seconds on paper towels, and then toss them into the bag of icing sugar. Hold the bag closed and shake to coat evenly.

13. When all of the beignets are cooked, top with more of the icing sugar and serve whilst still warm.

Chicken & Waffles

Walking amongst the stalls and colourful food trucks of the Taste of DC festival, I enjoyed many delicious confections and concoctions. My favourite was the outrageous diner classic, chicken and waffles. Yes, that is what it sounds like. A densely soft, sweetened waffle, topped with spicy southern fried chicken fillets, smothered with icing sugar and maple syrup. I have to confess to having reservations about this dish but the Americans know what they’re talking about. The hot, spicy, crunchy (dare-I-say) greasy chicken is perfectly offset by the smooth, sweet accompaniments. Meat and sweet works – don’t limit yourself to pork on this matter.

However I am well aware that many people will be worried about the horrific calorie count, so I have made a few moderations to the recipe. For example I am baking my Chicken tenders. I am also aware of the fact that many people will not have a waffle iron – I do have a problem with single-us gadgets cluttering up kitchen space. So my waffles are simply cooked in a cast iron griddle pan. This still provides some interesting markings, but is a more common kitchen staple.

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Level: high
Methods: batter making, pane
Skills: sautéing, baking

Time: 1 hour
Makes: around 4-6 servings

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Ingredients

For the crispy chicken fillets:
350g chicken fillets
2 eggs, beaten
1tsp hot sauce (like Tabasco)
1tsp Worcestershire sauce
250g plain flour
3tbsp cornflour
1tsp smoked paprika
1/2tsp cayenne pepper
2tsp black pepper
1tsp salt
1/2tsp garlic powder
2tbsp milk
2tbsp vegetable oil

For the waffles:
2 eggs
300ml milk
225g self-raising flour
2tsp baking powder
1/4tsp salt
100g unsalted butter, melted a, 1 tsp butter for frying

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Method

1. Preheat oven to 220°C.

2. Line a baking tray with parchment and brush over one tablespoon of oil.

3. In a medium sized bowl, whisk together the eggs, hot sauce and Worcestershire and set aside.

4. Next fill a large plastic sandwich bag with the flour, corn flour, paprika, cayenne, black pepper, salt and garlic powder. Shake to mix well.

5. Drizzle milk into the flour and use a fork to mix it into the flour. This creates an uneven crumb which will crisp better in the oven.

6. Dip each chicken tender into the flour mixture and then into the egg wash.

7. When complete, toss all of the chicken pieces back into the flour and jumble up to give an extra crispy coating.

8. Arrange each piece on the baking tray and leave to rest for 10-15 minutes.

9. This gives you time to make your waffle batter. Crack the eggs into a bowl, add the milk and whisk to combine.

10.Sift in the flour, baking powder and salt then whisk until fully combined.

11. Add the cooled melted butter and fold it through. Do not over mix or your batter will be tough.

12. Next, drizzle the tops of the rested chicken fillets with your remaining oil.

13. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until chicken is cooked throughout.

14. To finish the waffles, place your griddle pan over a high heat, add a teaspoon of butter and as soon as it’s melted pour in 3-4 rounds of batter.

15. Lower the heat to medium-low and cook the waffles for around 5 minutes on each side, or until lightly golden brown and cooked through.

16. Give the waffle an extra couple of minutes to crisp up if needed then put on a plate.

17. Top with the crispy chicken fillets and douse liberally in maple syrup.

Chocolate Chip Cookies

When I arrived in Washington DC, I breathed a quiet, secret, sigh of relief. For DC, according to my research, was unique among my US destinations for not having any specific foods or cuisines associated with it. I guess that makes sense when you consider DC is a miniscule state all of its own and is nestled between two states with rich culinary traditions of their own. So I breathed that sigh of relief, knowing that I could probably be a proper tourist for the next few days and not have to think about this blog.

On my second day in the city, I was about to make my way back to the hotel, late one afternoon. I had pounded the pavements, visiting the Washington Monument, Lincoln Memorial, White House, State Capitol and the brilliant (and free) Smithsonian museum. The sky had become overcast and rain looked inevitable. Then I turned the corner and stumbled upon a massive Food Fair, The Taste of DC… I couldn’t just ignore it, could I?

Immediately after entering the gates of the festival I encountered (and of course had to try) some seriously amazing Chocolate Chip cookies. This is an American staple, worthy of appearing in my section about the state capital, and one. we all know and love. The large, soft, chewy cookies studded with still molten chocolate chips are a treat everyone can enjoy. But don’t be tempted to buy them from those naff stalls housed in the local shopping centre. Make them yourself, they’re easy and taste so much better. I prefer a combination of both milk and dark chocolate. I find the dark chocolate tempers the sweetness and (best of all) stays melted for longer.

This recipe is one I have used at school with my students before and quite honestly has only been very slightly adapted from the original source. So it would be remiss of me not to give credit to the Hummingbird Bakery, whose wonderful cook book this recipe originally came from.

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Level: low
Methods: creaming
Skills: baking

Time: 30 minutes
Makes: 12 large cookies

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Ingredients
110g unsalted butter (room temperature)
175g light soft brown sugar
1 egg
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
200g plain flour
Pinch of salt
1tsp bicarbonate of soda
125g chocolate, roughly chopped (I use equal amounts of dark and milk chocolate)

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Method

1. Pre-heat the oven to 170°C

2. Put the butter and sugar into a mixing bowl and cream together with an electric whisk until pale and fluffy.

3. Add the eggs, mixing well and scraping any unmixed ingredients from the side of the bowl.

4. Add the vanilla extract and stir through.

5. Add the flour, salt and bicarbanote of soda and mix well with a metal tablespoon until a smooth dough is formed.

6. Stir in the chopped chocolate.

7. Prepare two baking trays by lining with good baking parchment.

8. Arrange 6 equal mounds of cookie dough on each baking tray. Leave gaps between them as they will spread in the oven.

9. Bake in the preheated oven for 10-12 minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown around the edges.

10. Leave the cookies to cool slightly on the trays before turning out onto a wire cooking rack to cool completely

Bagels

With the cheesecake under my belt (both figuratively and literally), there was one more thing I needed to do. I have travelled to NYC twice prior to this current trip and have enjoyed many great American dining experiences; I had sampled the wares of many fast food joints; I had enjoyed pancakes, waffles and hash in quaint neon-lit, steel-lined diners; I had enjoyed buffalo wings and beer at many a dive bar; I had even enjoyed massive slices of NY pizza so greasy they made the paper plates they were served on transparent. But I had yet to eat at a classic Deli.

I typed a local favourite (Eisenbergs) into Google maps and off I went on my latest food pilgrimage. Entering the blink and you’ll miss it, narrow-plot, Jewish run deli was like taking a step back in time. Red faux leather stools lined the narrow bar and directly overlooked the massive flat-top grill that the chefs were working furiously at. Photos of previous owners, workers and quasi famous celebrities adorned the walls. This is what I had come for.

From the menu I selected two classics: a Pastrami on Rye and a Lox Bagel. The former was as decadent as I had hoped, lightly toasted rye bread filled to bursting point (we’re talking a half pound minimum) with warmed, spice crusted pastrami, sliced paper thin and accented with mustard. This is the kind of sandwich you travel for and to try and reproduce it for you here would be tough. I suspect most of you won’t brine your own meat for three weeks just to make a sandwich.

But equally memorable was the bagel, its golden domed surface, punctuated with sesame and poppy seeds. The bagel was split, buttered, then toasted and topped with cool smooth cream cheese and smokey, melt in your mouth smoked salmon. This is a dish that people can cook at home. Making bagels can be a timely process, but the results are outstanding if you follow the recipe closely

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Level: high
Methods: novel bread dough
Skills: boiling, baking

Time: 2-4 hours
Makes: 8 bagels

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Ingredients
400g strong bread flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
7g sachet fast-action yeast
250ml warm water (from the tap)
3 tbsp clear honey
1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing
1 free-range egg, beaten
1tbsp each of sesame seeds and poppy seeds

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Method

1. Sift the flour and salt into a large mixing bowl, then add the yeast and mix well.

2. Measure the warm water into a measuring jug and then stir in 1tbsp of the honey and the oil.

3. Make a well in the centre of the flour and pour the liquid in gradually, bringing the dough together with your hands.

4. Turn the dough out onto a clean, dry and floured work surface. Start kneading the dough for approximately 10 minutes, or until the dough is firm and elastic.

5. Shape the dough into a large ball and place in a lightly oiled bowl. Turn the dough in the oil to coat. Cover with cling film or a plastic bag and put in a warm, dry place for 1–3 hours, or until the dough has doubled in size.

6. Remove the dough from the bowl, then punch it down and knead it briefly. Divide into eight equal chunks.

7. Firmly roll out each piece into a long, thin sausage shape.

8. Bring the ends together to make a ring, sealing them closed with a small amount of water. Place onto a lightly greased and floured baking tray and repeat with the remaining the dough.

9. Cover and set aside to prove for a further 10–20 minutes.

10. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 220°C.

11. Add approximately two litres of water to a large saucepan and stir in the remaining 2tbsp of honey (this will help to give the bagels a shiny, golden crust.) Bring to a gentle simmer.

12. Gently drop each bagel into the water (do this in batches of two) and turn over after 1 minute. Simmer for another minute, then remove the bagels from the water, and drain.

13. Place the bagels on the prepared baking trays, spacing them apart.

14. Brush the tops with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the assorted seeds.

15. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes, or until golden-brown, then turn them upside down for a further 10 minutes to ensure an even bake.

16. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.

17. When ready split and lightly toast the bagels before smearing on some cream cheese and lavishly garnishing with smoked salmon.

New York Style Baked Cheesecake

I have eaten a great many cheesecakes in my time, both in my role as a teacher but also as an avid cook and restaurant goer. For whatever reason, whenever I am dining out, I am unable to pass up a slice of baked cheesecake, regardless of how enticing the other desserts may be. There is something about dragging your fork through the yielding, smooth, creamy filling, accented simply with lemon and vanilla, then cracking through the gritty, buttery base. Yet, despite my ardent fervour for this dessert, I have never had a New York Style Cheesecake in New York.

This time, then, I was desperate to taste some and managed to track down a highly respected purveyor of this noble pud, Eileen’s Special Cheesecake in Soho. The cheesecake I ate may well be amongst the best I have ever tasted. I tried an individual, plain cheesecake – but in truth I could have wolfed down two or three more. The texture of the filling was light and delightfully moreish.

Although I can in no way guarantee the following recipe will be as good as Eileen’s, it is the most similar recipe I have on record. I use ricotta here in place of Philadelphia in an effort to make the dish a little more authentic and I fold through whipped double cream in the hopes of making the filling that little bit lighter. This is a real simple recipe folks, but worth the effort.

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Level: low
Skills: whisking, folding, baking

Time: 1 hour (plus cooling time)
Makes: 6 individual cheesecakes

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Ingredients
50g butter
6-8 digestive biscuits, crushed finely
1tbsp golden caster sugar
250g tub ricotta
50g icing sugar
1 lemon (retain the zest and half the juice)
2 egg (1 whole and 1 yolk)
½tsp vanilla extract
150ml double cream

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Method

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C (about 130°C in a fan oven).

2. Take a muffin tin and line 6 of the holes with paper muffin cases.

3. Gently melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, then stir in the crushed biscuit and granulated sugar. Continue until well mixed and all of the butter absorbed.

4. Press some of your base into each of the paper cases and press down firmly with the back of a spoon.

5. Bake in the oven for just 5 minutes to help develop some crunch.

6. The next job is to combine the ricotta with the icing sugar, lemon zest and juice, whole egg, egg yolk and vanilla. You can use an electric whisk, but I prefer a wooden spoon to prevent the cheese from breaking down too much.

7. In another bowl, whisk the double cream until the soft peak stage (where the cream can just hold its shape.)

8. Fold into the cheese mixture. Spoon evenly into the paper cases, right up to the tops, then tap the tin on the work surface to flatten the filling.

9. Bake for 30 mins, then turn off the oven and allow to cool completely inside.

10. Serve chilled.

Clam (Seafood) Chowder

Another New England classic I sampled in Boston, was clam chowder. This warming seafood soup has an intense flavour profile, combining sweet almost briney clams, with smokey and salty bacon, all rounded out by a rich velvety cream base.

Clam chowder has been a staple in this part of the world for some time but one of the most surprising historical tidbits I picked up, is that the addition of tomatoes (like in a Manhatten clam chowder) is more than just a matter of taste, it’s a matter of law. So serious are New Englanders about their chowder that in 1939 a bill was introduced to Maine legislature, outlawing the addition of tomatoes to any chowder. Serious stuff.

To be honest, while some seafood can taste great with tomatoes, it can also be overwhelming to the more delicately flavoured varieties of seafood. Therefore I’m all for this (admittedly crazy) ban and will be making my chowder the way it was meant to be eaten; thickened with a roux, potatoes and double cream.

The clams themselves are trickier as they are not readily available in the UK. So I suggest one of three options when selecting your seafood.
1. Get the real thing if you are lucky enough – even canned, brined clams are passable.
2. Use a combination of shucked mussels and Queens scallops. The former provides the texture, the later the sweetness.
3. Keep it really simple and use a pack of mixed fish pie filling (smoked haddock, cod and salmon).

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Level: medium
Methods: roux, seafood preparation
Skills: boiling/simmering

Time: 1 hour
Makes: 6 portions

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Ingredients
150g bacon, diced or lardons
2 leeks, cleaned and chopped into semi circles
1 large onion, finely diced
1 stick of celery, chopped
3 bay leaves
1tbsp chopped fresh thyme
60g plain flour
350g white potatoes, peeled and medium-diced
800ml stock (fish or vegetable are best)
400ml double cream
250-300g clams/seafood (cooked or defrosted as appropriate)
2tbsp finely chopped parsley
Salt and pepper

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Method

1. In a heavy stock pot or saucepan, fry the bacon over a medium high heat. The idea is to render out the fat, leaving just crispy nuggets of bacon.

2. Next stir in the leeks, onions and celery. Saute for about 5 minutes or until the vegetables start to soften.

3. Season the vegetables with salt and pepper. Add the bay leaves and thyme. Stir in the flour to make a roux and allow to cook out for a few minutes more.

4. Add the potatoes. Stir in the stock and bring the liquid up to a boil.

5. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are fork tender – this should take around 12 minutes.

6. Add the double cream, taking care to keep the temperature low so it does not split.

7. Add the clams (or any other seafood) and simmer for 2-4 minutes until cooked through.

8. Stir in the parsley.

9. Ladle soup into shallow bowls and serve.

Lobster Rolls

It is customary for Bostonian Lobster Rolls to be served in large hotdogs buns. The pillow soft rolls can be toasted – providing the optimum contrast of both texture and temperature. For you see, the sweet and quivering tender lobster meat should always be served chilled and scantily coated by a fine, unobtrusive layer of good quality mayonnaise. The smallest amount of finely diced, barely-there celery, a squeeze of lemon and a twist of black pepper provide the only necessary seasoning for this New England classic.

The people of Boston are loathed to alter this time honoured sandwich and it’s easy to see why. Presenting the lobster in all this unadulterated glory is a a must, but throughout New England this perennial favourite can be served in a number of novel breads. My favourite is potato buns. These have a light internal crumb and a soft crust.

Lobster is horrifically expensive in the UK, so if you are fortunate enough to be able to provide one, this recipe is an ideal way to showcase it’s charms. Don’t be put of by its rustic appearance, fresh lobster in my home made potato buns, served with a delicious dressed side salad is as luxurious a dinner party meal as any other.

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Level: medium/high
Methods: enriched dough, seafood preparation
Skills: baking

Time: 2 hours +
Makes: 8 buns and enough filling for 4

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Ingredients
For the potato buns:
250g desiree potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
2tbsp unsalted butter
275g bread flour
1tbsp sugar
2tsp fast-action yeast
1tsp salt
2 eggs (one for glazing)

For the filling:
400g lobster meat (or approx 4 tails or 2x 11/4 lb lobsters)
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
2tbsp fresh lemon juice
2–3tbsp mayonnaise
Freshly ground black pepper
2tbsp butter

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Method

1. Place the peeled, cubed potatoes into a medium saucepan and add water to cover.

2. Bring to the boil over a high heat; reduce to medium-low and simmer until the potatoes are cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.

3. Transfer 5 tablespoons of the potato water into a bowl and allow to cool. Then drain the potatoes in a colander.

4. Return potatoes to saucepan and place over low heat. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally, until any surface moisture has evaporated.

5. Mash the potatoes well with a potato ricer or traditional masher. Stir in butter until melted.

6. Combine the flour, sugar, yeast, and salt in a large bowl. Add the warm potato mixture and mix with your hands until combined (some smaller lumps are to be expected).

7. Add the egg and reserved potato water; bring together into a cohesive and slightly sticky dough.

8. Turn onto work surface and knead until smooth (4-5 minutes). Resist the urge to add too much extra flour, the dough needs to stay moist.

9. Place back in bowl and cover tightly with clingfilm. Allow to rise at room temperature until almost doubled in volume, 30 to 40 minutes.

10. Turn out dough onto counter, dusting with flour only if the dough is too sticky to handle. Evenly divide dough into 8 pieces. Working with one piece of dough at a time, form dough pieces into sausage shapes around 6 inches long. Cover and allow to rest 15 minutes.

11. Arrange the buns on a lightly greased and floured baking sheet. Cover loosely with and let rise at room temperature until almost doubled in size, 30 to 40 minutes.

12. Preheat oven to 210°C.

13. Glaze rolls GENTLY with egg wash.

14. Bake rolls until deep golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes, rotating the baking trays half way through cooking if your oven is uneven.

15. Remove from oven and transfer rolls to a wire racks to cool until needed. Four rolls can be reserved for another meal.

16. Prepare/cook lobster meat as per instructions. Then cut into 1/2-inch pieces.

17. When lobster is cool, mix it with the celery, lemon juice and mayonnaise in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Place in fridge until needed.

18. Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat. Split four of your buns lengthways and spread the flat sides with butter. Cook until golden, about 2 minutes per side.

19. Fill generously with lobster mixture.

Chicago-style Deep Dish Pizza

Chicago Style deep-dish pizza is legendary thanks to clever marketing on behalf of the food manufacturers. But most of us never get the chance to taste it in its original form as it is seldom, if ever, reproduced in an authentic manner. Deep Dish is not the same as deep pan or thick crust pizza, which ostensibly is just pizza with a thick base, because deep dish pizza is encapsulated by a raised, thin, pie like, biscuity-textured crust that is in a category all of its own.

Just how this dough is made is a closely guarded secret! Some suggest the texture is achieved by adding an inordinate amount of oil to the dough, whilst others believe the dough should be filled with butter via a method known as laminating. The deep dish I tried in Giordano’s (a Chicago mainstay) definitely had a buttery flaky texture, so I’m opting for the second method.

But what is clear is that the base is best made with good old plain flour, rather than the bread flour we are so accustomed to. The logic seems to be, that in order to create a short and flaky crust, the dough should only be kneaded for a very short time, meaning that the gluten has little time to develop. Ideal. So the reduced gluten content in the plain flour proves to be advantageous.

And remember this isn’t a Chicago-style pizza unless the toppings are plentiful and added to the pie in reverse order – the sauce goes on top!

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Level: high
Methods: laminated dough
Skills: sauteing, baking

Time: 2 1/2 hours
Makes: 1 9-inch pie (feeds 4)

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Ingredients
For the Dough:
225g plain flour
35g cornmeal
½tsp salt
1tsp sugar
7g pack of quick-action yeast
150ml water, room temperature
2tbsp olive oil
2tbsp unsalted butter, softened
extra oil for greasing

For the Sauce:
240g can San Marzano tomatoes
1 garlic clove, minced
25g grated onion
¼tsp salt
¼tsp dried thyme
1tbsp tomato puree
2tbsp coarsely chopped fresh basil
Freshly ground black pepper

For the Toppings:
150g fresh mozzarella cheese, torn
50g grated Cheddar cheese
25g grated parmesan cheese
50g each of pepperoni, finely diced onion, sliced green pepper and sliced mushrooms

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Method

1. Pour 150ml warm water into a measuring jug. Add the oil, yeast and sugar, then stir.

2. Combine the flour, cornmeal and salt in a large bowl.

3. Pour the yeast mixture into the bowl, a bit at a time, stirring with a table knife. When you have one ball of lightly tacky dough, turn out on to the work surface and knead for 2-3 minutes only.

4. Coat a large bowl with 1 teaspoon olive oil and transfer the dough into the bowl. Cover the bowl with clingfilm of a tea towel and let the dough rise at room temperature until nearly doubled in volume, 45 to 60 minutes.

5. While the dough rises, empty the tin of tomatoes into a bowl and crush the tomatoes with your hands, until most of the lumps are gone.

6. Stir in the garlic, onion, tomato puree, herbs and seasonings.

7. Prepare your toppings – you can even saute the vegetables for a few minutes to soften them.

8. Turn the dough out onto a dry work surface and roll into a rectangle (approximately 5×10 inches). Using a palette knife, spread the softened butter over the surface of the dough, leaving a 1cm border along the edges.

9. Starting at the short end, roll the dough into a tight cylinder. With seam side down, flatten the cylinder back into a rectangle.

10. Fold the third up, then the top third down to cover it (like folding a letter). Pinch the seams together and form into a ball. Return to the oiled bowl and leave to rise for another 30-40 minutes.

11. Meanwhile preheat the oven to around 220°C.

12. When the dough is doubled in size, grease a 9-inch round cake tin with a generous amount of olive oil.

13. Roll the dough out into a 13-inch circle. Transfer dough to the tin and lightly press against the edge of the tin, working into the corners. If the dough resists and begins shrinking back, let it relax for 5 minutes before trying again. The dough should come at least 1-2 inches up the side of your tin to capture all the oozing toppings.

14. Now spread your Cheddar over the base, then the mozzarella. Now top with the pepperoni and veg, before pouring over a generous portion of the sauce. Sprinkle with parmesan.

15. Bake until the crust is golden brown, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove pizza from oven and let rest 10 minutes before slicing and serving.